Italy is closed for the month. Starting around the first weekend in August shops began shuttering their windows and posting signs that said “Closed for vacation.” Most companies shut down for the month so that taking a vacation becomes almost mandatory for workers. TV newscasts and newspapers have been full of reports and headlines about the traffic nightmares as millions of people flee the cities for vacation spots on the coast and in the mountains. One free daily newspaper has even stopped publishing for the month of August. Friends warned us that we would have a hard time finding grocery stores and fruit stands open during August, so we better plan ahead. August 15, or Ferragosto, is the grand-daddy of vacation days. The day has Roman Catholic origins, but now is more a symbol of the August vacation.

The flip-side of all this vacationing is that the less touristy cities become ghost towns, but in a good way. It becomes much more enjoyable to walk down empty streets that are normally too crowded to maneuver through, and you don’t have to wait in line for tables at restaurants (but you do have to make sure they’re open!)

Times are also changing. In the past, absolutely everyone went away for a month of vacation. This year, a newspaper reported that a higher than ever percentage of the population is either taking only one week of vacation or none at all, though this is mainly due to economic reasons. And as for those grocery stores, gone are the days when you had to consult the newspaper to find an open store. Now, most are at least open in the morning.

Not everyone enjoys the leisurely days of August. Beppe Grillo, an Italian political activist/comedian, has some interesting thoughts about the month.

Last Modified : August 14th, 2007
Filed under : Italy, Local customs
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