Alassio and Albenga are two towns about half-way between Genova and the Italian-French border situated on a section of the coast known as Riviera delle Palme. The coast has long, sandy beaches, and inland villages produce olive oil, Pigato white wine, and even snails!

Alassio has been around since the Middle Ages when it was a small fishing village, but it really hit the big time during the Victorian era when it became a popular vacation spot for the British well-to-do. Art Nouveau style buildings intermingle with Genovese palazzos and medieval houses. The beach-front promenade has an endless supply of open air restaurants and cafes looking out towards the sea.

One street inland from the sea is Via XX Settembre, known as “budello.” This narrow, medieval street is the main shopping drag where you can easily find the local delicacy, Baci di Alassio. Baci di Alassio consist of two chewy, chocolately hazelnut flavored cookies that have more of the consistency of a brownie than a cookie sandwiched together with a creamy, firm chocolate filling. I don’t think dessert gets any better than these baci.

One more street inland is the “Muretto di Alassio,” or little wall of Alassio. This stone wall that forms the boundry between a park and the street is paved with tiles signed by famous people who have visited Alassio. It all began about 50 years ago when a caffe owner put up tiles signed by celebreties who had visited his place. Earnest Hemingway was one of the first people to get his tile. We also spotted Woody Allen’s signature.

Connecting Alassio with Albenga is an old Roman road, Via Julia Augusta, that hugs the coastline high above sea. The road is now only open to walkers and locals with very small cars. Along the road you get great views of coast, Isola Gallinara, which is a small turtle shaped island just of the coast that used to be inhabited by wild hens and monks. You even pass by some ancient Roman ruins.

Coming down from Via Julia Augusta into Albenga we were immediately struck by the brick towers sticking up from the town below. Albenga was first settled during Roman times, but it has one of the best preserved medieval town centers in Liguria. This includes seven of the original twelve medieval towers. All over Italy noble families used to build these towers to showcase their wealth. One of the most interesting sights in Albenga is the Baptistry, which was built in the 5th century during the late Roman/early Christian period. It’s the only intact early Christian building in all of Liguria.